Thursday, January 26, 2012

March 8, 2011- Day #4

"It's starting to feel a bit comfortable here"
  Day #3 here in Fondwa. I opted out of eating last night for fear that I might get sicker. At reflection I mentioned one thing I've sort of been thinking about a lot and it's that I straddle almost two identities and it's very frustrating. I don't feel I get to really own being a Haitian as I do not speak the language and this is my first time being here. And I don't really latch onto the "American" side of me as my identity either. Mainly because I know that there is more to me that I want to belong to than just an "American" and not that being an American does not come with it's own benefits or privileges, but simply that I like the layers of my life, and I am completely content with them.
 And while that may be selfish being a Haitian in my own way is all that I know.

Being in Fondwa has become somewhat routine. Bed by 9pm and up by 6am. Today after breakfast we basically did nothing until our meeting with Elysse of Fonkoze. He was great and a stark contrast to the women we spoke with before him. Maybe because his public speaking skills were better, but I am not very sure. I'm not even sure if I minded that the women weren't great speakers. They had a presence about them that could be respected.
  Elysse spoke about his time working at a bank and how different it was than his experience working here at Fonkoze. He enjoys his time here, that much you can read off of his face as he speaks of the work he does here. It seems to be filled with a lot of happiness. I enjoy speaking to him. He told us a story about a woman who has worked through Fonkoze, he said she started off very poor, her husband had died and she was raising 3 kinds. She has picked herself up and has been able to send all of her kids to school, and was even able to send one of her kids to college in the states. Speaking with Elysse was a great conversation and much needed.
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Today I spoke with another gentleman who works for Fonkoze, his name is Johnny. He was very nice. He spoke to me about his experiences in Fondwa. Howe he feels Port-au-Prince is not safe and secure, despite it being the capital city. He says that he prefers Jacmel to Port-au-Prince. He works for Fonkoze, isn't in school and lives with his mother. He provides enough for his younger brothers and sisters to go to school, and for him he wouldn't have it any other way. It's not that he doesn't want to strive for anything else, he just is very content with his station in life. That is something to really take in and try and understand. Here in the states we are all about the perspective that more is better and that we should always be trying to strive for much more, one because we deserve it and two that is just the way our society has created it. But in Haiti, you do what you can to make sure that the ones around you are taken care of, and you do your work for the better of them, not really of yourself.
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We walked down to APF today, (another HIKE!) to meet with two women's groups in the area.






These women were beautiful and very happy. From different walks of life. They were extremely passionate and very intentional with their meeting us. The moment was bittersweet, there was an amazing woman.








(Photo Credit: Shoshanna Sumka)
Her name was Shirlene Joseph, she was sort of the spokesperson for the women at the meeting, she was very strong, intelligent and was very clear in her objectives while speaking to us. She was very open about the challenges women face. Talking about the many problems faced by women in Haiti. She listed the following as the abuses felt by women in Haiti: Verbal, Economic, Physical & Psychological.

 She talked about the need of the community, how the women wanted training for reproductive health. She asked us "what was our intention? What makes us different than the other organizations that come through their community making empty promises?" And the truth is I do not know. I won't know. Not until I get back home and can think about what it is we can do.

So as we sang, danced, smiled and were connected through this International Women's day, I am left with this sinking feeling that we've ALREADY negatively impacted the community we are learning from and supporting. That while we are visiting them, all we are doing is robbing them in a way from being able to continue to progress. How, can I one person transform their daily lives?

Following the Meeting Sister Claudette took us around the grounds of APF. The entire building--3 floors, collapsed. There's a group here from New Faith Ministries, they are working to help rebuild APF. It's interesting I was annoyed, or not as open to churches having a big role in redevelopment in New Orleans, but here in Haiti it's part of what unites the community. Reflecting back on their role in New Orleans, the same thing must be said. Churches reunited  & PROVIDED for communities in the absence of government. In Fondwa, if APF, Father Joseph and the Church were not there, I think the environment would have been much different. Communities find their strength in the Church, it is the center of their community, how they communicate and connect with each other.

As Sister Claudette takes around ad shows us the grounds of APF, my mind keeps returning to the talk Emeira Woods gave us during our first "Haiti Week" at American University. She said "Every Haitian, abroad and in Haiti was affected by the earthquake. It is here in this moment that I realized how real her words are. I lost a cousin and who knows who else. Jeff lost an aunt, this town was disrupted in a big way and ultimately the whole country. But they still move forward, they still grow. We are connected eternally with our loss, but we have life, so we live it the best that we can.

Sister Claudette introduces us to other sisters. Sister Carmel is a big beautiful Black woman, with an iPhone! She is the "head" sister. She thanks us for visiting, excited to see new faces. She wants us to see the little store they have on their grounds, hoping we will purchase some things.

After meeting the sisters we walk down to St. Anthony's School. All that is left is the concrete ground this beautifully designed concrete and tiled floor. Jeff said he went to school here before attending the University. I can only imagine what it feels like to lose everything. To come back to a place that you used to walk into everyday, only to see nothing remains but the floor. In many ways I did, but not to this magnitude. We say goodbye to Sister Claudette, leaving her a card and a gift we have brought.

The guys Mede, Jeff and Edme walk us back up to our guest home. Well really what we have been calling home. The walk up is really tough and I comment on the determination of the community to make the trek on foot often, just to go to school, or to work, or to the main road. (remember this is almost a 45 Minute to an hour walk, just to the main road, not even to where we live). When we reach the top I am so happy to have made the climb, I am glad to no longer be sick, because that would have sucked. Mede has to leave us which is really sad. He says that he'll "always remember us," I hope that I never forget him. I tell him I'll be back in June (I hope I can keep my word).


 Jeff and Edme walk us the rest of the way to the bakery. As we wait for dinner, I speak to Jeff. He has 1 brother and a sister between his father and mother. He is the oldest. His father remarried and now has four other children. I was not necessarily moved by the story, but touched that he felt comfortable enough to share it with me. As I write this now I wonder how if here in Haiti, there is also a stigma with divorce or separation like there is in the US. Speaking to a stranger that my parents are divorced, is still hard to this day- maybe because of all the baggage that came after, but still taboo.
  I asked Jeff if he's traveled and he told me "no", but he wants to. He has big dreams of traveling. And then he told me something that has completely transformed this trip for me. He said, "That's why I want to be an educated man, because I can travel," he continued, "I feel that the international community has a different perception of Haitians and that is why I want to educate myself." FLOORED- here is a guy, an amazing, smart guy, in this small rural town in the south of Haiti. Between two major cities, who's world view is limited to the visitors who come through his town, and what he hears on his radio and through the television and what he reads in his text books. But even though this view is so small, limiting, something that I think is fragile and pure. He has uncovered the dirty secret that has been splashed on TV since the earthquake and years before- that Haitians are not worthy of help. I pray that Jeff is able to travel, to see the world and to show the world how small their perceptions of the Haitian people really are.

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Before dinner we gave the guys gifts and thank you cards and we said goodbye. During reflection Edme came back with a gift for Maria, whom he had a crush on during our visit. He also wrote a note for all of us. I will be sure to add a little bit of the note, once I can translate it properly-- he wrote it in Spanish. :)

                                                   (Photo Credit: Shoshanna Sumka)


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Reflection: Our theme seemed to be about not breaking promises and sort of making sure we do take every attempt to keep our commitment, especially because we've already crept into their lives. And I don't want to be another "broken promised" organization. We'll see what the next few days spark in terms of post-trip activism.

(Photo Credit: Shoshanna Sumka)






A good night note: we had a mini bonding experience- Tania, Audrey, Oge and Maria. We talked a little bit in regards to why we chose AU and I gave them a little background on what I've learned through my experiences working at AU. So my goal to get to know everyone a little better is happening!

3.7.2011 Day 3

8:00am

I don't know what it was about sleeping in Haiti, but I slept like a rock. In my sleeping bag like everyone else, but like a rock.
It rained last night it was interesting. There is no electricity or running water in the guest house that we stay in or much of the village for that matter, but while I recognize the discomfort for me, I wonder what would it matter if I didn't know better or if I couldn't afford more.
Today the faces of the students we met yesterday are more familiar waking up to see the towns people is a little more familiar. I don't feel like an outsider today. Not as much. (Thanking Chantalle for her quick lesson on "Must know" Haitian phrases.)

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THE FOOD! We had breakfast today @ 7am: Eggs, mango and bread. Bread much like the one my aunt buys from Le Bon Pan in Queens. This food is amazing, great food! I am happy :)
We headed out for our first day of work, planting trees in the country side with the guys we met yesterday. Including some new friends: Chelot Pierre (he works with BRAC) and Gilles Kesnel (another UNIF student). Adam and Alex came with us as well.
At first I think I can speak for everyone a part of AU, that we were really unsure of what to do. We didn't have enough tools, so there were definitely more of us than the work that needed to get done. Alex kept trying to organize the system, but it was still frustrating not understanding or having a system that worked for all of us. But I think we ended up creating one that worked efficiently.
What made the day easier was speaking Spanish to Obenson, who spoke Spanish. Maria, Obenson and myself worked together and created a good system with our new found Spanish conversations. They marked where we planted and I'd leave the trees and someone else would go back and dig and someone else would plant.
In comparison to the New Orleans or rather Biloxi '09 Tree cutting experience it was nice to have a visible end goal and to be able to accomplish it within our time frame. We managed to plant maybe 100ish trees that we could actually measure.
There were all of these little boys walking back from a stream of water and women carrying these big tubs of water up this hill to fill it for their homes and things they needed.
There were more children running around, cute little kids spying on us to see what we were doing.

After tree planting we walked up to Piton, a smaller community within Fondwa. It is at the top of this big hill. You can see Jacmel city and the beach from this view. I definitely didn't want to leave. I think standing on that hill looking over the countryside solidified my Haitian experience. I'm still trying to straddle these two identities. I feel like I'm very comfortable being on the fringes of my identity. More and more Leigh's words- "You don't have to be in Haiti, to help Haiti," resonate even more with me. Haiti will always have my hear and it's okay to want to do something, but I just need to know how best to utilize my time and energy so that I am being useful and actually making a difference in the world around me, but particularly for Haiti.

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The days here are a little longer. It's interesting to know that after accomplishing as much as we did (tree planting) that there is still quite a lot that can be done in the time left before it gets dark.

Lunch again was fabulous, we had lunch with the guys, some djon djon, chicken, salad and duce not like the way Tigan makes it but it was good nonetheless. I however, don't feel very well after lunch and my bathroom experience is a testament to that.
I realize that yes I should have taken some more preventative measures (getting my vaccines, getting malaria pills and antibiotics, but when I am actually able to pay for better medical coverage then I will actually be able to take a little better care of myself. But if the runs are all I suffer from during this trip than THANK YOU LORD! All I have is God to protect me.
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After lunch we walked down to the convent. Walking was an understatement, we hiked! The convent sits on this little hill that overlooks a majority of the rolling hills that surround Fondwa. What is sad is that the foundation of where the old convent was still there. The convent was three stories, you can see the "basement" if you will with the doors and everything still standing, but the top level of the convent is gone. Sister Claudette says that the sisters were participating in prayer when the earthquake happened. She said that the building started to shake and she and the rest of the sister's basically ran down the hill far from the convent. I kept picturing what that must have been like. To be on your knees one minute and the next running for your life. Sister Claudette told us that one nun died in the earthquake, along with an orphan from the orphanage. Their graves are right on the grounds of the convent. And what is left of the foundation of the first convent, is being utilized as the foundation of the new convent, put together by materials brought in from outside folks.
  Upon our return from the convent, I am struck by how much walking is accomplished by members of the community but more about how much walking is done barefoot, whether it rains, or there are a lot of rocks-- whatever it might be, these men, women and children walk with baskets of food, carrying heavy loads and don't really have the shoes to support them.


 But at the same time I realize what if it was me? If this was all I knew would it bother me?
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Today we met Helene, she runs the local beverage shop and is actually the accountant for APF. She was very quiet, somewhat reserved but I was at peace with her comments. She wanted us to take away from this experience what we determined we should. She didn't want to prescribe to us, what we should feel, or what we should interpret from meeting her or others that we met. She was also very content with her place in the town and the role she played for her community. She seemed to be happy with her continued success, but seemed to only be please if it was something that the community wanted for her. It wasn't in my opinion as if she was necessarily happy with her position for herself, she wasn't looking to elevate herself for her own means but rather for what was more supportive of the community around her.
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I realized I haven't really talked about the group as much as I should. So here are the participants:



  Oge * Mariam* Maria * and Audrey *.. Shoshanna is the trip advisor and Tania is my co-leader and Haiti- extraordinaire, she has been our translator and our guide amongst other amazing things. I sort of feel like the 5th participant rather than the co-leader to this trip, because there is a lot that I am taking in about this experience we are having. I feel like the group has bonded in their own little way, my plan is to get to know them each a little better.

3.6.2011 Day 2

MORNING!!
Sleeping in Haiti was amazing! Even though the rain was loud it was still very peaceful. I wondered about the people in the Tent cities. Would they be dry? Or is the rain another headache that they have to deal with in the morning?
We woke up at 6am to the sound of the roosters crowing and I was so excited to be in Haiti. Waking up in Tania's room the day after we arrived was finally that moment where I exclaimed YES!!! We are here :D
Tania's mother prepared us breakfast: fruit- MANGO! and Avacado!! among other dishes. We had this while we waited for the Asosyasyon Peyizan Fondwa (Association of the Peasants of Fondwa) or APF.
[To find out more about this organization click this link  to their Facebook page, http://www.facebook.com/pages/Association-of-Peasants-Fondwa/188925504112#!/pages/Association-of-Peasants-Fondwa/188925504112?v=info#info_edit_sections]
Our drivers Rudy and Edmont were great chauffeurs. They drove us by the National Palace, which up close is nothing like it is on TV. The Palace is not even being worked on. We talked about that today- progress would be restoring the iconic building in the capital city. If this was D.C. and a natural disaster toppled the White House, this would be one of the first things that would be rebuilt. A sign of strength a point to say yes, we are back.

[Streams of Consciousness]
Driving past the National Palace there are a lot of grand manchanns along the main streets. A lot of people leaving church, it's amazing how crowded the streets are.
There is so much trash and the houses (huts) are right on top of each other, it really reminds me of TJ (tijuana, Mexico). Especially the further out your get from Port-au-Prince(PAP), the area we will be staying Fondwa, sort of reminds me of driving to Rosarito. Just outside of PAP you can see the ocean, the beautiful blue ocean and a series of little houses all along the strip of the water.
There are hills! OMG the hills beautiful lush green hills with the background of this cool blue water is breathtaking- THIS was the Haiti I was waiting to see. This WAS the Haiti I could imagine in my dreams.
And the tap-taps, there were so many and beautifully designed. If I find the one with Tupac on it I will be pleasantly happy.

(11:45)
We arrived at Fondwa this morning a little after 10am, got acquainted with the area and Sister Claudette. She's a nun here in Fondwa and is connected to APF because of Father Joseph Philippe-He's the founder of APF and Fonkoze. We haven't met him yet, but we are here :)
We met with a woman named Chantelle, she teaches here at L'UNIF. She spent some time teaching us our first lessons in Kreyol! I am excited to be here. My Tati was right, by the time I get back to the states I WILL be able to speak the language like a true Ayicienne (haitian). We are about to have dinner--lunch.


(2:00pm)
We went for a walk through the city near Fondwa site and it made me extremely uncomfortable because we were walking through their community and I couldn't really get into it because I just felt like an intruder. We walked through this area behind the Restaurant (what I am assuming will be the "home base") of this trip, there are people working, heading to church, people in their yards, going through their everyday lives. As we walked by there was no real association, Sister Claudette and another young man from APF walk us through, chatting along the way and saying hello. But I'm realizing that with every additional step I am getting more and more anxious and awareness of not fitting in.I still feel like an outsider even though I am Haitian, it is the most awkward situation.

(6:45pm)
After lunch we met with 5 students from L'UNIF they are:
Jeff Jean-Louis
Edme Obenson
Mozar Jocelin
Vernet Calixte
Mede
The conversation started of slow. It is a little awkward because Tania has to translate for all of us. They understand English, but there is still some translation that needs to happen. It takes a minute to warm up, and I think we are still trying to figure out how to have a conversation with them as well. But once we have a rhythm, the conversation goes a little better. They are very nice young men. They expressed their sorrow in losing family and friends through the earthquake. And how they are much different because of the experience. I can only imagine what that must feel like to lose everything you've worked hard for. I think of my cousin- I wonder where his body is located. Where in this country did they place the 1,000s of bodies.
The guys, they are so happy to continue their education and do what they can to revitalize their community. Most of the guys are studying agronomy (a discipline, I am not familiar with) there is one Obenson, he is studying Management- they call him "The Boss."
They spoke about their anger towards the NGOs here. That they come with their new ideas but do nothing to help. It's nice that the sentiments are the same and that my feelings as a Haitian-American resonate with their feelings.
After our mtg the guys invited us to a party with their school. it was nice to feel this atmosphere of college students just being college students. We don't know what they were saying, but the familiarity of fun was still there. It was some sort of showcase, each male associated with the University was partnered with a woman University affiliate- each couple didn't know who their opposite was until the "unveiling." They had nicknames, and I guess they wrote letters to each other throughout their weekend gathering. It was pretty interesting.
OH!! We met some other volunteers today- Alex and Adam. They help Ed with the IT stuff for the University. We don't know them yet, so we'll see what the next few days bring. It is nice to see more "blans" around.

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Reflection:
Tonight I shared my concern of being an outsider in my "homeland." It is very frustrating to not know the language and be surrounded by people that I want to be close to and feel connected to and with. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.

So it begins... 3/5/2011

 March 5, 2011

(9am)

Today is the day. We made it to NY safely. My dad met us at the airport. I was very happy to make it and see him considering I am very, very nervous.
Everyone keeps telling me how I should feel and what I should expect. I sort of wish they would stop. I understand they are curious about my home going but I don't have many expectations. Really the only one I have is to discover me. So here is to the next leg of my journey. In 4 hours and 20 minutes, I'll be in Haiti. For the first time ever! It's fitting that today is my grandfather's birthday. In a way through me he's going home. Pe Ceran N'ap Kinbe.

(3:25pm)
So we landed in Port-au-Prince and it wasn't until we "made it" that I finally felt comfortable. The plane landed and the women next to me kept saying "Thank you Jesus" there were some cheers and some claps of excitement from various places on the plane. And all at once I felt happy. Getting out of the airport wasn't as overwhelming as people have made it seem. Reminds me of getting my bags from JFK and then leaving JFK with all the cab drivers that hang out and urge you to drive with them.
Driving through the city to Tania's home in Delmas was eyeopening. Not much different from traveling to Mexico, but it was home, my home! I look around eagerly for some familiarity, for some momentous moment to happen, where it all clicks.
There is spray paint along the roads with "Viv Wyclef," posters of "Martelly (Sweet Mickey) for Preziden." I caught glimpses of the "tent cities" literally all along the airport road. I saw my first "live" tap-tap Tania's house is beautiful I am excited to explore. But it is time to eat!

(9:46pm)
I just realized I got my first stamp in my passport today. It is official, I am a world traveler :) Can't really get the fam on the phone but the power of text is amazing. I've been able to update my Twitter and my Facebook periodically so as to connect the rest of the world with my experience here. We had reflection tonight on Tania's patio and it was just nice to sit in the cool Haiti Breeze and talk.

Reflection time...

(Writen March 2011, before the trip takes off)

If you don't know where you've been, you can't know where you are going.

I'm trying to remember what got me interested in wanting to "discover" Haiti for myself. I think it was just because I knew that my family had a little more "character" than the others around me, because they were HAITIAN, and in our small town, we were like rockstars. I remember in elementary school my parents came to speak to our class about Haiti and the culture etc. I think at the time I was a little embarrassed because- well who wants their parents to hang out at school, but I still learned a lot. I remember long drives to NY I would ask my dad from the back seat, tell me something about your childhood in Haiti. And he'd tell me a story from what he remembered about his time in Haiti.
I think I had this vision of Haiti being this luscious Island , I imagined myself as a little girl in Haiti and wondering what kind of life I would live. One day I saw the Haitian flag being splattered across the TV. It was the 90s under Bush and Clinton and during the Aristide Coups. I don't think I have ever seen my father so animated. I remember he called into every radio station he could, wrote various news papers. I think he was even interviewed on TV once, while I wasn't able to grasp the whole story, I knew that something big was happening. And the way the reporters talked about Haiti, I knew there was something different about the Haiti I had envisioned and the "reality" of Haiti. I think as I grew older and began to see the changes in U.S foreign policy towards Haiti, I started to carve out my career goals based on how I could give back.
January 12, 2010 is a day that will never be forgotten. I remember coming back to my residence hall room that Tuesday evening to channel surf after the second day of classes, and I saw the Haitian Flag splattered across TV once again- brought me back to the 90s. Hearing what had happened, a 7.0 earthquake, I knew something had to be done. I didn't know what but I knew something.